The new Fatback carbon fork on my Surly Moonlander has definitely lightened the entire bike, and rides quite well. I can't really say what vibration reduction it plays since all I have ridden it on is firm packed snow and I have 4.7 ballon tires on the bike so any vibration is probably being absorbed by those huge tires. If nothing else, it has lightened the bike by a good two pounds. I cut the steerer tube a bit higher than I normally would have assuming I could cut it even more in the future if I wanted, or leave it the way it is and this would give me a lot of room for moving my stem up or down to suit my preferences. Cutting the steerer tube was easy (assuming you have access to a Park Tools steerer tube cutting guide and a new 32 tooth hacksaw blade). A bit of duct tape around the cut area assured no fraying or strings were made during the cut. Because the steerer tube is carbon, you can't use the normal star nut in it for your headset (the star nut would tear the shit out of the carbon) so have to use a compression plug type nut for your heatset. Two issues I did find with the new setup: the Problem Solvers compression plug didn't give me as much compression tightness up front and I had some play in the headset until I gave the entire setup a small tap with a hammer. The plug then worked well in sucking up some of that sloppiness. I can see I will have to watch this setup in the future and check for sloppiness. The second issue is the stem cap that came with the Problem Solvers is intergral and you can't swap it out so there goes my nice gold Thomson stem cap. Crap. I will probably continue to monkey with this to come up with a better solution.
Another issue with the Fatback fork is the disc brake attachment is about 3 mm outside so my brake rotor would rub badly on the inside of the brake body. Shimming the brake rotor out from the hub by about 3 mm and then adjusting the brake body allowing for a relatively rub free front brake. Again, some monkeying around will probably need to be done. I used some spare tube stem nuts as spacer washers to shim the rotor out. The bolts that come with the brake rotor are too short with the spacers in place so you will probably have to go to the hardware store to get six new bolts. As I ride the bike more, expect more imput.
The last issue is pulling the front wheel off and putting it on with the front disc brake is sometimes tricky. Depending on your front brake setup on the fork, it can be a tight fit to pull the front wheel off. I have Avid BB7 brakes (I like the adjustability factor) and once I was trying to put the front wheel on and put a little too much force into it. The bolt head that adjusts the inner brake pad put a tear into the outer casing of my tire. Whoops. To prevent this, letting some air out of the front tire so it is a bit more pliable as well as holding the front wheel between your lets and using both hands to move the fork into place both seem to work well. Once the front wheel is back in place, you can add more air if necessary.
Some photos of the bike setup thus far:
I may add gold cable housing for the brake at the end of the season.
The fork does look real nice.